Day 33 Reavis Saddle to Superior
More from this trailIt's hotter than a furnace fan out in Arizona
I knew I would experience extremely hot weather when I decided to thru-hike the Arizona Trail. Let's face it, assuming it would never be hot – even in October – would be foolish.
I expected to hike in high temperatures when I started in late September, and the Grand Canyon delivered. Daytime temperatures for the two days I was in the canyon were well above 100ºF.
There are only two narrow windows when a full thru-hike of the AZT makes sense. The summer is out of the question because of the heat, and the winter is usually too snowy to complete the trail in one season.
I assumed the fall would be the better choice. Even if the temperature was still hot, I figured it would soon begin to cool.
What I got instead was an October of record-breaking temperatures. They have been up to 20 degrees warmer than normal.
Eleven days ago, the high temperature in Phoenix was 99°F, and that gave residents a slight, temporary break from the heat. Imagine celebrating a drop to just 99 degrees.
While it's true that I was hiking far from Phoenix, and the elevation of the trail was much higher than where the city is located, I still suffered from several days of scorching temperatures. And because of the mostly barren terrain, especially where there have been wildfires in the last few years, there has been little to no escape from the sun.
Thankfully, it looks like I am near the end of the heat wave. The forecast I saw today said the high tomorrow would be 83ºF. After that, there will be a few days that only reach the mid-60s.
What's more, I planned to do my best to get to Superior today. As I prepared to leave this morning, I didn't know where I would be staying once I got there. I didn't care much, so long as the place was air-conditioned and had a shower.
Lights from Mesa, Arizona illuminate the sky
I woke up at 5 a.m. The sky near the horizon was brightly illuminated, but the source wasn't the sun. That wouldn't rise for nearly two more hours. What I was seeing were the lights of the Phoenix area, and specifically, the city of Mesa.
My early wakeup time wasn't on purpose, but I took advantage of it anyway. It gave me a head start on the day. If I wanted to get to Superior today, I would need to hike about 21 miles, or so I thought. (More on that later.)
Beginning a descent from Reavis Saddle
I also thought, or at least presumed, the trail would be all downhill today, which would be favorable to my goal. I knew for sure the trail started with a long descent because I saw it from the top late yesterday before I stopped to camp.
The one thing I got right last night was the likelihood of finding a campsite. I didn't see any potential sites until I was near the bottom of the 1.7-mile descent.
The trail turned to a road after leaving Superstition Wilderness
The 2.5-mile climb that followed caught me off guard because I didn't look at the trail's profile before I started hiking this morning. It wasn't difficult, however, and soon after reaching the top, the trail left Superstition Wilderness and began following a smooth dirt road.
When I stopped for breakfast at 7:30 a.m., I made a quick calculation for when I might reach the Picketpost Trailhead. It looked like I could get there at a very reasonable 5 p.m.
From my breakfast spot, I could see signs of civilization in the distance, and that made me realize I probably had cell service. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a phone number for MJ, the trail angel Moonjuice recommended to me yesterday. Her number was in FarOut; it just never occurred to me to look for a waypoint on the app's map that marked where she lived.
Instead, I called the Copper Mountain Motel and made a reservation. When I asked for a suggestion on how to get into town, the owner said I should call MJ.
I already regretted not finding her number, but I decided to stick with the reservation. The reviews for the motel were good, and the price was reasonable.
A few small signs of new growth among burnt trees and shrubs
The road went through another area that was burned this year. The Adessa Fire was started by lightning on July 28, just a couple of weeks after the Black Fire nearly forced an evacuation of residents near the Roosevelt Dam.
Here, there were already a few signs of life among the blackened remains of trees and shrubs.
A long view down the mountains toward Superior
As the descent continued, I began to see much of the landscape in the direction of where I would be walking in the next few days. The sky conditions were a little hazy, but I could tell I was heading into rugged terrain. There wouldn't be high mountain peaks like the Mazatzals and Superstitions, and beyond that section, the trail would follow a lower desert floor.
This wasn't a complete view of my upcoming route, however. The trail will soon make a wide bend to the east, which from my viewpoint was to the left.
If this had been a much clearer day, I might have been able to see Mount Lemmon. At the moment, it was 70 miles away and the next tall mountain I had to climb.
A trail marker is partically burnt
The burned section was bleak, though it only consumed about a mile of the trail. I followed it on a circuitous route that dropped into a dry creek bed in Reavis Trail Canyon. Even here, the name of the "Hermit of the Superstitions" was used to identify landmarks.
The valley gets closer
The sky was partially overcast, but it wasn't cloudy enough to keep the temperature from climbing.
When I reached the area of Mud Spring, I began looking for a concrete trough. The FarOut app said this was a reliable water source. That turned out to be wrong. Then I remembered reading comments about this source. There was no water here. It was about a tenth of a mile back the other way.
After backtracking and following a route off the trail described in the comments, which included looking for a series of cairns and a faded bandana, I found the water.
While I was there, I met a northbound hiker who told me she was hiking the Grand Enchantment Trail, a 770-mile route that includes some of the Arizona Trail. This was a route mapped out by Brett Tucker. He's the husband of Tree Hugger, the woman I met on Day 20, who helped me ditch my plans to quit this hike.
Soon after that, a hiker named Al arrived. As we discussed stopping at Superior, he told me he had arranged for MJ to pick him up, though that was to be at a different trailhead than Picketpost, where I had planned to stop. He said there was another trailhead about two miles before Picketpost.
This seemed like my chance to get a ride, so I hurriedly finished filtering my water and tried to get a lead on Al. I figured he would be a faster hiker than me, and I didn't want to miss out on the ride.
Saguaro cacti stand tall
As I suspected, Al was faster. Before long, he passed me and was soon out of sight. I tried to descend the trail as quickly as I could, but the extreme heat made that difficult.
Picketpost Mountain comes into view
When Picketpost Mountain came into view, I knew I could get to the trailhead before 4:30 p.m., the time Al said MJ was picking him up.
Al and MJ
The rest of the trail was favorable for going faster, and I arrived shortly after 4:00. Al said he got there 20-25 minutes before me. He told MJ I was on the way, and she agreed to wait for me.
MJ gave us a brief tour of Superior. It was apparent as we drove around that the town had been through some difficult times. Many storefronts and houses were boarded up or run down. The 2020 census recorded the town's population at 2,407, which was about half of what it had been 50 years before. Nearly 28 percent of the population lives below the poverty line.
The town was started in 1902 by the Lake Superior and Arizona Copper Company for its employees. Before that, huge deposits of silver were mined in this area. Superior's economy and population began to decline as mining slowed. All operations in the mine ceased in 1996.
Copper Mountain Motel, Superior, Arizona
After the drive around town, MJ dropped me off at the Copper Mountain Motel, which was located on U.S. Highway 60, the main route through town. No one was in the office when I arrived, but when I made my reservation, I had been given a number to call. Julio arrived a short time later and checked me in.
The motel had no guest laundry facilities, but Julio offered to do my laundry for five dollars. He said he'd leave my clothes in my room when they were done. That was helpful, because as soon as I finished showering, I was able to walk to MJ's house and meet up with Al for dinner. Another hiker, Rocketman, who was from England, planned to join us.
MJ suggested a restaurant called Porter's Saloon and Grill, so that's where we went. We all ordered burgers and beers.
Al and Rocketman seemed unsure about returning to the trail tomorrow. I told them I wasn't planning to take a zero day. I didn't want to risk not finishing the trail until the Thanksgiving holiday, when the cost of flying home would be significantly higher.
That's what I was thinking, anyway. My body would soon suggest a different plan.
You can fry an egg out there on the city sidewalk
You can fry your bacon and and and and
I understand why lizards live in sunny Arizona
Why people do and call it home I'll never understand
It's hotter than a furnace fan out in Arizona
110 ain't nothing when you live out there you see
Stars come out you scream and shout, "Hey it's good to know you"
If you're going there and you don't mind, say hello for me
This trail report was published