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Weminuch Wilderness Area

Hike Reports: Pacific Crest Trail 2019

Hike with Gravity

I hiked the entire Pacific Crest Trail, March 24 to October 25, 2019. This page displays the day-by-day posts of that hike in reverse chronological order. If you prefer, start reading here from the beginning.

Posts of my thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail can be found here (reverse chronological order) and here (chronological order).

Day 28, Tentsite at Mile 335.6 to Swarthout Canyon
Good time, great taste, and I get this all at one place

I’m not a fan of fast food. I rarely eat it. In fact, the only time I’m likely to eat fast food is when I’m in a trail town and there aren’t better restaurant options. Nevertheless, I confess to looking forward to reaching a McDonald’s today. It was just four-tenths of a mile from the trail.

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Day 27, Grass Valley Creek to Tentsite at Mile 335.6
Put it off until tomorrow, you've hurt me enough today

I fear I’m getting lazy again. It was sensible to maintain an easy pace the first couple weeks of this hike, but I still felt I should have been pushing myself. Then for a few days over the San Jacinto Mountains, the terrain gave me the challenge I expected. Now I feel I'm settling back into complacency. My miles per day have picked up, but I still don’t feel I’m pushing myself.

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Day 26, Deep Creek to Grass Valley Creek
You see somebody naked and you say, "Who is that man?”

Today was a day several tramily members had anticipated. Just a few miles up the trail from where we camped last night were some thermal hot springs. This was a well-known spot on the trail, and perhaps a little infamous. My friends were looking forward to getting there. Some of the hot spring pools were clothing-optional, but that wasn’t why they wanted to go there. They just wanted to soak in the hot water

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Day 25, Little Bear Springs Camp to Deep Creek
And then a man rode into town, some thought he was the law

There are many differences between the Pacific Crest Trail and the Appalachian Trail, but most notable are the terrain and weather. These differences are not surprising. What I’ve found surprising is how our hiking pace on the PCT has been much more dictated by the availability of camping spots and water. We've had to adjust our pace nearly every day. We prefer to camp near water, rather than hike farther and camp in a dry area. The distances between suitable camping spots have sometimes made this a challenge.

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Day 24, Big Bear to Little Bear Springs Camp
Bertha, don't you come around here any more

I was up early this morning and began packing by 5:30. An early start was needed because I was assigned to the first group of hikers at the hostel who were returning to the trail today. So many hikers were returning, our shuttle driver would need to make two trips to the trailhead to drop off all of the hikers. Rainbow Sherbet, MJ, and Grommet were also assigned to the first group.

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Day 23, Zero Day in Big Bear Lake
I get by with a little help from my friends

I woke up this morning at 5:00. There was no need to wake up that early. I just did it out of habit. Today was going to be a zero day, as in a day of zero hiking miles. That term is a bit of a misnomer, though. A zero day usually involves a lot walking and many activities because shopping and other chores need to be done.

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Day 22, Coon Creek Cabin to Big Bear Lake
We see this empty cage now corrode

All of my tramily friends slept last night in the rundown cabin. I was the only one who thought the cabin would be chilly and drafty, so I slept in my tent. This morning they said they were cold and didn’t sleep well. I stayed warm and comfortable all night long. I was sorry they had a bad night, but I liked being right.

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Day 21, Mission Creek to Coon Creek Cabin
Let your tracks be lost in the dark and snow

The Pacific Crest Trail doesn’t always allow for a flexible hiking plan. That's different than the Appalachian Trail, where water and campsites are usually more evenly spaced. It's easier to hike enough miles to fill a day on the AT than it is on the PCT. In the first three weeks on this trail, we've had to sometimes stop earlier than we wished because there were too many miles ahead to reasonably reach another camping spot or water source. I’ve also discovered that hiking with a group takes away some flexibility. I might be willing and able to hike farther, but if I wish to stay with the Woo-hoo Crew I have to stop where they stop.

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Day 20, Whitewater River to Mission Creek
It's that wrong way feelin’

If you were to look at the elevation profile of the trail segment I walked today you would see that it involved climbing more than 4,600 feet. You might presume that made for a tiring day. Indeed, it was tiring, but not because of the climb.

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Day 19, Interstate 10 to Whitewater River
It trembles and explodes

Maybe staying in a motel off the interstate made us feel far removed from the trail. Maybe we were still in recovery mode. Some of us had just finished hiking a tough section of trail and the rest were getting over the flu. For whatever reason, we were in no particular hurry this morning to return to the trail. For certain, the reason we were slow wasn’t because we lingered over a deluxe breakfast. That’s not to say the breakfast at the Rodeway Inn was bad. At least it was free with the room. We’re thru-hikers and therefore not especially discriminating, so we did our best to fill up on cold cereal and prepackaged pastries.

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Day 18, Fuller Ridge to Interstate 10
Now everybody has got the choice between hotdogs and hamburgers

The last four days had been challenging. The trail had climbed from 4,000 feet to 9,000 feet in elevation, where we then walked through several miles of snow. Along the way we were battered by wind. Today would be our reward. The trail was either downhill or flat the entire way. Waiting for us at the end were all the conveniences of modern life: fast food and Walmart, Ubers and motel rooms. We were going to have it all.

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Day 17, Stealth Tentsite at Mile 187.3 to Fuller Ridge
Just then the wind came squalling through the door

Though Tengo Hambre and I had tucked our tents tightly among rocks, trees and shrubs, we weren’t completely protected from the blast of wind that hit us overnight. My tent began to flap and shudder as the wind picked up. The wind became increasingly gusty by morning, which I estimated to be up to 40 mph at times. It was a good thing I had anchored my tent well, but I didn’t really have much choice for that. The space for our tents was so tight and the ground was so rocky I had to use rocks and tree branches to tie off the tent ropes instead of using stakes.

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Day 16, Tentsite at Mile 176.4 to Stealth Tentsite at Mile 187.3
And I saw my reflection in the snow covered hills ‘til the landslide brought me down

After a difficult day of hiking yesterday, I thought today might be a little easier. Nearly all of our discussion about snow in the San Jacinto Mountains was about the segment of trail along Apache Peak, which is what we walked yesterday. I thought, and I think everyone thought, the snow we might see today would be relatively limited.

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Day 15, Fobes Ranch Trail Jct. to Tentsite at Mile 176.4
The hard is what makes it great

The first two weeks of hiking the Pacific Crest Trail could not be called hard days. That’s not to say there weren’t a few difficult miles here and there, but overall, I never felt I was being pushed too hard. I wanted to hike this trail because I was looking for a challenge after I finished my thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail in 2017. So far, the trail has been mostly easy. That changed today. The trail was hard.

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Day 14, Idyllwild to Fobes Ranch Trail Jct.
Timothy Leary's dead

For nearly two weeks, I had been hiking with the same group of people. They were fun, intelligent and inclusive. Now the tramily was shrinking and it didn’t feel right. In fact, it felt as if the tramily was breaking up, but that may have just been because I had not seen much of the whole group while in Idyllwild. Tengo Hambre, Bookworm and I stayed in a different building than the rest of the group.

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