A saguaro cactus along the Arizona Trail

Day 37 Gila River Canyon to Ripsey Wash

I'm gonna ride my llama from Peru to Texarkana
Today's Miles
15.5
Total Miles
527.7
Weather
Clear skies, with temperatures ranging from the mid-40s to the low 80s
Trail Conditions
Easy ups-and-downs for six miles, then a 1,800-foot climb for the next seven miles

For many miles of yesterday's hike, I could see the Gila River but not reach it. Unfortunately, after I refilled my water bottles in the morning, there was no easy way to get more. I had to carry more water than usual.

I might have been able to access the river from one or two spots, but getting there would have required bushwhacking through mesquite, palo verde, and desert willow, then crossing a barbed-wire fence. Though I would have liked more water, I didn't need it badly enough to do all of that.

What's more, I knew the quality of the river water was poor. It was polluted with animal waste, agricultural runoff, and heavy metals from a nearby copper mine. I'd already had enough of that.

Thankfully, I knew I could reach a spigot of fresh water this morning, so I decided for now to make do with the water I still had from yesterday.

The temperature was unexpectedly cool last night, much cooler than it had been lately. I was glad for the change and hoped it was a sign that fall weather was on the way.

It remained chilly enough this morning that I wanted to stay cozy in my quilt. I was slow to get packed and didn't start walking until 6:30 a.m.

A bright sun hangs over the Gila River Canyon

A bright sun hangs over the Gila River Canyon

I warmed up quickly after I got going. The trail immediately climbed steeply in a couple of short stretches. And with no trees or shrubs large enough to cast shade, I was in bright sunshine for the entire section.

A metal disc marks where the AZT was completed

A metal disc marks where the AZT was completed

After reaching the top of the climb, I noticed a 3.5-inch metal disc embedded in concrete and low to the ground. It was small and inconspicuous. I could easily have missed it.

The disc was placed there during a ceremony in December 2011 to designate where construction of the Arizona Trail was officially finished.

I was surprised to discover the marker was so unremarkable. On some of the trails I've hiked, such as the Appalachian Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail, a much grander tablet or monument was placed at an equivalent spot.

Ray Mine appears in the distance

Ray Mine appears in the distance

After passing the commemorative disc, I followed the trail on a long descent. It dropped toward the river but never came close enough for easy access.

Ahead, I could see the Ray Mine, an open-pit copper mine operated by ASARCO, which is based in Tucson.

When mining began more than a century ago, silver was the primary ore extracted. Production eventually shifted to copper, and a report says the mine contains one of the largest copper reserves in the U.S. According to the report, there should be enough copper here to keep mining operations going until 2044.

As I mentioned yesterday, a study found heavy metals in the Gila River, and the Ray Mine was the source.

A spigot and picnic table provided for hiker

A spigot and picnic table provided for hiker

Shortly after 10 a.m., I arrived at a paved road. The trail made a right turn here and crossed a bridge over the Gila. Before I headed that way, I turned left and walked a short distance to a Pinal County highway maintenance facility. I went there because the county allows hikers to use a water spigot and picnic table located beneath a shade tree.

This was my first chance today to get out of the sun. I stayed for several minutes to eat a snack and drink a liter of water, then filled my bottles with four more liters.

Bridges on the Gila River at East Florence–Kelvin Highway

Bridges on the Gila River at East Florence–Kelvin Highway

Two bridges crossed the Gila River at East Florence–Kelvin Highway. The newer of the two was opened to traffic in 2018. It stood much higher than the other, which was built in 1917 and is now used only for foot travel.

From the other side of the river, the trail began a long, nearly continuous climb. The next seven miles would ascend roughly 1,800 feet.

A wooden arbor at the East Florence–Kelvin Highway trailhead

A wooden arbor at the East Florence–Kelvin Highway trailhead

Two miles into the climb, the trail reached a large gravel parking lot and trailhead. A small arbor stood at one side of the parking lot, which offered another chance to catch a little shade. I sat under it and ate my lunch.

There was also a metal box in the parking lot. It contained a cache of several gallons of water, which was free for hikers to take. Though I'd filled my bottles with four liters of water only two miles earlier, I guzzled one bottle with lunch and then refilled it.

A hunter with his llama

A hunter with his llama

Two men arrived while I was eating lunch at the trailhead. They unloaded two llamas from a trailer and began loading carry bags onto them. The men also had large backpacks. There were no saddles, so I knew the llamas were only there to carry extra gear.

I asked one of the men how long they intended to be hiking, figuring from their fully-loaded packs that they would be out for several weeks. He told me they would be hunting mule deer for only a couple of days.

There was also a trail register at the trailhead. When I looked at it, the two most recent entries startled me. They were written this morning by Al and Rocket Man. Those were the two thru-hikers who left Superior when I did, two days ago. I'd assumed they were far ahead of me by now.

It's possible that Al and Rocket Man left the trail yesterday, went into Kearny, and returned this morning. If they caught a ride into town, it would have taken only 10 minutes to get there.

A view across the Gila River Canyon

A view across the Gila River Canyon

The climb from the trailhead wasn't difficult because of a steep elevation change, but it was far from easy. Some sections of the trail were in rough condition. The trail also didn't go straight up. Every now and then, it dropped, and I had to regain that elevation before climbing higher.

I was climbing a range called the Tortilla Mountains. Early prospectors and ranchers named the mountains for the area's flat rock ledges and slab formations.

Eventually, I could see the Ray Mine again, now on the other side of the Gila River.

Cacti in the Tortilla Mountains

Cacti in the Tortilla Mountains

There were plenty of cholla, barrel, and saguaro cacti along the route, though none were large enough to provide any shade. The cool morning didn't keep the afternoon temperatures down as much as I'd hoped.

Kearny appears in the distance

Kearny appears in the distance

As the ascent continued, I sometimes could see Kearny in the distance. Mostly, though, I kept my focus on the trail ahead. There was still a lot of climbing to go.

More than once, I thought I had reached the top, only to realize I was making another short drop or going around a knob before the climb resumed.

Teddy bear cholla

Teddy bear cholla

It wasn't until late in the afternoon that the trail dropped into Ripsey Wash. Although the wash could have given some protection from the wind, I arrived there too early to stop for the day.

The trail then followed the wash a short distance before climbing out. On the other side were some low trees. This seemed like a better spot to camp because I could tuck myself in between them.

The wash may have taken its name from the Old Ripsey Mine, or the mine may have been named after the wash. I'm unsure which is correct.

Mining at Old Ripsey ceased in 1941.

Because I had cell service at this elevation, I checked in with Kim. She told me she had just handed out the last of her Halloween candy to trick-or-treaters.

I'm gonna ride my llama
From Peru to Texarkana
I wanna ride him good
In my old neighborhood

This trail report was published