Polecat walks on a gravel road

When you need a train it never comes

Day 7, Warwoman Creek to Martin Creek

Sunday, October 9, 2022

I woke up this morning to the sound of howling coyotes. This shouldn't have been a surprise, but it was. I've heard them before on many hikes, including several in the Southeast U.S. Still, hearing their yipping and barking was a little startling because I've always associated them with the West. I blame Roadrunner cartoons for that.

Eastern coyotes are integrated into most of this part of the country, so I should be used to them. They migrated across the Mississippi River in the 1960s. A study conducted in South Carolina found that coyotes were responsible for 46 to 84 percent of all deer kills. Their large bodies and strong jaw muscles make them well-suited to killing larger animals, allowing them to thrive where the deer population is large.

Weather Mostly cloudy in the morning, gradually becoming partly sunny; temperatures from around 50 to mid-60s
Trail Conditions Long climbs and descents, a couple of blowdowns but otherwise well-maintained
Today's Miles 14.1 miles
Trip Miles 93.0 miles

The coyotes I heard sounded close, but I never saw them. They had quieted down by the time I started to prepare for the day and crawled out of my tent.

Polecat and I left our campsite on Warwoman Creek shortly before 8 a.m. Although we soon lost sight of the creek, we would cross it again later in the day.

Leaving our campsite to begin the day

The Blue Ridge Bartram Trail is marked with yellow blazes. They are 2-inch by 6-inch rectangles like the white blazes on the Appalachian Trail and the blue blazes on the Foothills Trail. Most of the blazes here were painted metal strips nailed to the side of trees.

Warwoman Creek

The trail turned away from Warwoman Creek after less than a mile. We crossed a road at a spot called Warwoman Ford, and soon after that, we came upon some campsites. This was where Polecat and I first thought about camping yesterday before deciding it might be crowded with weekend campers.

This assumption turned out to be correct. We passed several campers on the other side of the road. A large, barking dog had to be held back by its owner as we walked by one site. Other campers were preparing to leave.

Once we were beyond the campsites, we didn't see any other people on the trail until late afternoon.

The Bartram Trail

Just past Warwoman Ford, we saw the Chattooga River one last time. The trail then began an ascent. For the better part of the next six miles, the trail gained about 1,100 feet in elevation. There weren't many spots where this was a steep climb, but it was substantial enough to become tiresome.

Polecat crosses Dick's Creek

Unlike the Foothills Trail, where every creek, branch, or gully seemed to have a bridge, streams on the Bartram Trail weren't always as easy to cross. The first time we discovered this was at Dick's Creek. It seemed we might have to ford across. The stream wasn't wide or deep, but we looked first for a way to avoid getting our feet wet.

A cluster of fallen trees a short distance downstream from the trail solved this problem, even though getting across was a little tricky.

A large boulder with trail directions chiseled into it

Starting at Warwoman Ford, we began to see a feature of the Bartram Trail that isn't found on most backcountry trails. Instead of the usual signs at intersections made of wood or metal, some directions were chiseled into large boulders.

These were impressive and fit the landscape nicely, though the second one we saw proved why they aren't often used. It isn't easy to correct a typo or change the mileage when the trail is rerouted.

Polecat walks ahead

Polecat suggested we stop for lunch at a campsite near the top of our climb from Warwoman Ford. The extra effort of the climb up a slope of Rainy Mountain made me hungry, and I was grateful when I got there.

We didn't take a long time for the lunch break. The sky was overcast today, and I soon began to feel chilled.

Another boulder with trail directions

After lunch, the trail made a long descent to Warwoman Dell. We stopped for water at a spring on the way down, then passed another stone direction marker at Green Gap.

The trail followed a route intended for a railroad track

We began to see day hikers as we approached the dell and crossed Warwoman Creek. A parking lot and picnic area were there, which had been built in the late 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps. The CCC crew of 129 workers also built stone trout runs and spring houses.

Information signs described the area's history. One mentioned the story behind the Warwoman name, though implied it was a legend. There is some question about who that was, but I think there is enough evidence to say she was a real person.

Even though I said yesterday that Warwoman was a name given by Cherokee Indians to Nancy Hart, another woman may have held that title.

One possibility was Nanyehi, who later took the name Nancy Ward. She was a Cherokee woman who lived north of here in what is now Tennessee. She rose to prominence among the tribe for the bravery she showed in a battle against the Creek Nation, during which her husband was killed.

The title Warwoman fit Nanyehi because she sat with the war and peace chiefs at the Cherokee's ceremonial fire. She was the only woman given voting power in the tribe's general council and had absolute power to decide the fate of prisoners captured in battles.

Historians may never agree on who was Warwoman. Nevertheless, the stories of these strong women are fascinating and worthy to be retold.

Another sign we passed in the dell told of the Blue Ridge Railroad. A railroad already connected Charleston and Walhalla in South Carolina when plans were drawn up to extend tracks through here and connect to railroads in Knoxville, Louisville, and Cincinnati. The Civil War stopped construction on this ambitious project before any tracks were laid.

Although several attempts were made to restart construction following the war, no trains ever ran through the mountains and across the streams where I was walking. I wondered how much different this area would be if the railroad was successfully completed. It seemed likely that mining, logging, and farming would have been more economically feasible if trains became part of the landscape.

A waterfall on Becky Branch

There was a road at Warwoman Dell that led to Clayton, Georgia. If we needed to stop for a resupply, this would have been an easy spot to leave the trail. That wasn't necessary, though, because we picked up plenty of food yesterday to get us to Franklin, N.C.

Just past the road was a short climb to a waterfall on Becky Branch. The trail crossed the stream there, then followed an easy grade for nearly a mile before beginning another long climb. This one started by following Finney Creek.

The time was now past 4 p.m. Knowing we didn't have a lot of daylight left for today, we planned to find a campsite just ahead on Martin Creek, which flowed into Finney Creek.

Polecat arrives at a campsite

There were many downed trees on the climb, but nearly all had all been cleared from the trail. We didn't have any trouble getting to the campsite and arrived there about ten minutes before 5:00.

Sunshine appeared in the afternoon, and we still had enough of it to hike a few more miles. But according to my GPS track, there weren't any campsites in a reasonable distance ahead.

Patches inside a tent

With the daylight that remained after I set up my tent, I looked for pinholes in my tent and covered them with repair tape.

One downside of a tent made of Dyneema Composite Fiber is it tends to develop small holes in the fabric from abrasion, stretching, and UV exposure. Another downside is the expense of the material.

Though expensive, tents made of DCF are strong and extremely lightweight, and they don't absorb water like nylon tents. Damage is easily repaired, which can extend the life. I think these positives make owning a DCF tent worthwhile.

As I finished dinner and prepared to go to sleep, I looked at the map to get an idea of what was ahead for us tomorrow. I didn't see much water on the trail, and there weren't many camping options. Still, the FarOut app wasn't available for this trail, so I only had the GPS track I downloaded from the internet. Our information came from waypoints another hiker had marked on the track and the Gaia app's base map.

I didn't hear any coyotes howling tonight. I also didn't hear any train whistles, which made me glad this part of Georgia continued to be an undeveloped forest that my generation and future generations could enjoy.

The Union Pacific is due for a visit
And believe me I got a plan
But the plan's no good without the train
And when you need a train it never comes
When you need a train it never comes

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