Fall colors on the Chattooga River

Way down, down along Lazy River Road

Day 5, Fish Hatchery Campsite to Lick Log Campsite

Friday, October 7, 2022

Polecat, Sasquatch, and I haven't pushed ourselves on this hike. There hasn't been a need for that. Though the Foothills Trail has a few steep climbs and descents, most are short. It was constructed and maintained so well that extra effort has been unnecessary. What's more, the weather has been perfect.

Weather Mostly sunny with temperatures from low-50s to mid-70s
Trail Conditions Gentle climbs and descents; rocks along the river made some sections more rugged than usual
Today's Miles 14.1 miles
Trip Miles 67.9 miles

I chose to hike this trail in early October because I knew the weather would be mild. The temperatures wouldn't be too warm or chilly, and this is usually the driest month of the year.

The only downside of backpacking now is the days have fewer hours of sunlight. We could stretch our hiking time by starting before sunrise or finishing after sunset, but honestly, no one has felt a need for that. We've been satisfied keeping our daily mileage to around 14 or 15 miles.

Hiking on the Foothills Trail

I found a small amount of condensation inside my tent when I woke up this morning. The outside shell of my quilt felt damp, so I made a mental note to lay it in the sun when I stopped for lunch.

Keeping with our attitude of not hurrying, Polecat, Sasquatch, and I didn't leave our campsite until 8 a.m. It helped to know the trail would be even easier than the last couple of days. Because we will follow the Chattooga River for part of the way, we knew there wouldn't be many climbs.

A view of Whiteside Mountain from eight miles away

Of course, without climbs to higher elevations, there usually aren't many opportunities for views. That was the case today. The only view we got was early in the day.

Where the trail followed the ridgetop of Medlin Mountain, Whiteside Mountain could be seen between some trees. The 4,930-foot mountain was nearly eight miles away in North Carolina.

From this vantage point, it was easy to understand how Whiteside got its name. A white patch of bare vertical rock stood starkly against the side, looking as if the mountain had a patch of snow. The cliffs are claimed to be the highest perpendicular patch of bare rock east of the Rocky Mountains.

A flat section of the Foothills Trail

Though we knew much of our hiking today was on a flat trail, it didn't start that way. The first 2.5 miles went up, but the elevation change was modest, climbing less than 500 feet in that distance.

I began to see backpackers during the morning. The number was greater than any day so far on this trail. Among them was a family with two small children. It took a while before I remembered today was Friday and part of a holiday weekend.

I passed a sign at 10:30 a.m. marking the boundary of Ellicott Rock Wilderness. In truth, the trail didn't stay in it for long. Mostly, it straddled the wilderness area's boundary and only for the next three miles.

The 8,274 acres preserved by Ellicott Rock Wilderness spans across portions of Georgia, North Carolina, and South Carolina, making it the only wilderness in the U.S. overlaying three states. The boundaries of those states intersect at Ellicott Rock, which is named for surveyor Major Andrew Ellicott. He marked that remote spot in 1811 while surveying the boundary to settle a land dispute between Georgia and North Carolina.

Ellicott was also the surveyor who laid out the boundaries for Washington, D.C., and he marked the borders of several other states.

Lemon Squeeze

Shortly after leaving the wilderness area boundary for good, the trail passed through a narrow gap between two large boulders. According to the FarOut app, this rock feature is called the Lemon Squeeze. The name must have been borrowed from the Lemon Squeezer, which I remembered from my Appalachian Trail thru-hike.

This one didn't come close to matching the squeezing a hiker must endure on the AT, which is in New York's Harriman State Park.

King Creek

After the initial climb and a short section at around 3,100 feet, the trail began a descent. Like the climb before, the elevation change was greater than it seemed, dropping about 1,000 feet in three miles.

At the bottom, the trail crossed King Creek. Here, a side trail connected with the main trail, and I could have followed it 3/10 of a mile to a waterfall. I decided not to do that because I didn't want to fall too far behind Polecat and Sasquatch.

The Chattooga River

The trail reached the Chattooga River a half mile past the creek. From there, it would continue along the river's banks for most of the next seven miles.

The Chattooga is one of the few rivers in the Southeast that is still free-flowing. It was protected as a Wild and Scenic River in 1974, with different segments classified as wild, scenic, or recreational. The portion the trail follows was designated as "wild" because it can't be accessed except by trail.

Much of this river's 57 miles form the border between South Carolina and Georgia. The segment next to the Foothills Trail was so shallow I could have waded across to Georgia. Farther south, the Chattooga becomes a Class II river with sections of Class III-V rapids. The motion picture Deliverance featured some of those rapids.

Above the Chattooga River

The trail stayed at water level for about 2.5 miles before briefly climbing above it. The trees in their fall colors made this part of the trail especially scenic.

A sandy beach on the Chattooga River

When the trail dropped back to the river's edge, I arrived at a sandy beach. Sasquatch and Polecat had stopped there to take a break. The time was getting close to noon, so we stayed to eat lunch.

Remembering that my quilt had gotten a little damp from the condensation in my tent, I pulled it out to dry in the sun.

White wood aster

Polecat and I walked together for most of the afternoon. The trail remained as enjoyable as it had been this morning. Again, it mostly followed the river but sometimes climbed above it.

White wood asters were blooming here. They flower in late summer to fall. Though mostly found in the Appalachian Mountains, they also grow in adjacent lowlands. The centers of these flowers are typically yellow, but the ones I saw had changed to red.

Greater tickseed

Greater tickseeds were also growing along the river. They are a common wildflower in this part of the U.S.

Clouds above the Chattooga River

Although some clouds appeared in the afternoon, there was no threat of rain. The weather remained ideal.

Sasquatch and Polecat relax on a river bank

We stopped at 2:30 p.m. for another lengthy break on the river. There was plenty of time to kill because we now had just three more miles to go to our campsite.

When we arrived there at 4:30 p.m., a backpacker was already set up, but there was plenty of room for us without getting in his way.

I felt tired when I crawled into my tent after dinner, even though there didn't seem to be a reason for that. It had been a lazy day with easy miles and an early finish. Thru-hiking doesn't always have to be strenuous, and for today, I was glad for that.

Way down upon Sycamore Slough
A white man sings the blues
Selling roses of paper machΓ©
With flecks of starlight dew
I swiped a bunch and threw it your way
Where hazy moonlight glowed
Way down, down along Lazy River Road

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