Day 147, Sun River to Rock Creek

As has generally been the case these days, we were awake before sunrise. Last night was dry and comfortable. It helped that no trees stood around us to block a breeze, which kept condensation out of our tents.

The breeze began to increase as the sun came up. By the time I left our campsite and followed the trail back into the burnt remains of a forest, the wind was blowing strong and gusty.

The farther I walked among the dead trees, the louder the wind whistled through them. Soon, I heard spooky, howling sounds as the trees swayed around me. It was as if thousands of ghosts were wailing, moaning, and hollering nearby.

Polecat and I stopped to collect water at a footbridge that crossed the West Fork South Fork Sun River. He continued walking after he had filtered the water he needed, but I stayed by the river to eat breakfast.

The wind had died down a little by the time I began walking again. The sky wasn't quite as smokey as yesterday afternoon and last night. Still, a pale haze blanketed every distant view.

I walked alone for the rest of the morning, passing a few weekenders but seeing no thru-hikers. The trail continued roughly parallel with the river. That has seemed to be the general path of the CDT lately. Instead of going up, over, and down ridges, the trail mostly followed lower elevations down long valleys.

More signs of fall appeared today. Shrubs and grasses were turning yellow and red.

I didn't see Top O' and Polecat until they stopped for lunch near the river. During our break, we discussed where we wanted to camp tonight.

We were uncertain where camping was possible because an area near the Chinese Wall was designated a no-camping zone. Comments in the Guthook app said a map marker pointed to the wrong location for the zone. Sorting through the information was difficult to figure out where we could camp.

I climbed gradually all morning and into the afternoon as the trail went upstream with the river.

My first view of the Chinese Wall came at 3 p.m. This was near where the trail turned away from the river and went west along Burnt Creek.

The climb continued, and though steeper than before, I didn't need to slow my pace.

A little more than a mile past the river, the trail led me to the foot of the wall. It made another turn there, this time to leave Burnt Creek and go north along the base of the wall.

The CDT continued along the wall for about seven of its twelve miles. When I started following it, I could see most of the long section to the south that was not part of the route.

The next two miles were the steepest of the day, climbing 1,150 feet in two miles. The trail went up to a pass, and for a time, I couldn't see the wall. It came into view again after I crested the pass.

About eight-tenths of a mile down the other side of the pass, I came upon Moose Creek. I stopped here to refill my water bottle.

The time was 4:25 p.m. when I arrived, so there was still plenty of time to find a camping spot where it was allowed.

I didn't get far after I stopped for water because my pack became uncomfortable to carry. I needed to stop again to adjust the weight distribution of my extra food.

While doing that, I was stung by a yellow jacket. Fortunately, it must have been a quick sting. There was no swelling afterward, which sometimes happens when I've been stung.

I caught up to Polecat and Top O' again at 5:45 p.m. They had just stopped to set up their tents. The spot they chose was ideal, close to Rock Creek and with a spellbinding view of the wall.

The only downside to our campsite was a lack of nearby trees with high limbs. We needed several minutes and some ingenuity to hang our bear bags.