Gennett Poplar

I will meet you by the witness tree

Day 21, Northern Terminus to Gennett Poplar

Monday, May 2, 2022

I set my alarm last night for 5:30 a.m. This time was earlier than normal so I could pack and eat breakfast this morning before our shuttle driver arrived.

The Super 8 Tengo Hambre and I stayed in offered a "free" breakfast, though calling it a breakfast was a stretch. The only items available were prepackaged muffins, NutriGrain bars, yogurt, and bad coffee.

I didn't expect a made-to-order hot breakfast, even though the last Super 8 I stayed in had that. Still, if I had known before setting my alarm what was served, I would have woken up a few minutes earlier and walked to one of the many fast-food restaurants nearby.

Weather Partly cloudy with temperatures from the low-60s to low-70s
Trail Conditions A long climb to start, then mostly downhill; some blowdowns and many stream crossings
Today's Miles 9.6 miles
Trip Miles 293.4 miles

With a few minutes to spare before we were to be picked up, I flushed an accumulation of gunk out of my water filter while Tengo booked a flight home. We are now close enough to the end to feel confident of the day we will finish. After today, we have three more days of hiking.

Derrick drives Tengo Hambre and Gravity to the trailhead

Derrick, the shuttle driver we hired, arrived a few minutes after 7 a.m. When I made arrangements with him on Day 16, I asked him if he could drive us to the terminus. I didn't think to ask him if he knew how to get there.

After we had driven several miles out of town this morning, Derrick happened to mention he didn't remember driving anyone there. He also failed to enter the route in his car's mapping software.

Tengo and I had been to the terminus before, but only in an indirect sort of way. We hiked past it when we thru-hiked the Benton MacKaye Trail together in 2020.

By the time Derrick said he was unsure how to get to our destination, we were nearly outside of cell service. Thankfully, I had just enough signal on my phone to work out a route using Google Maps.

The directions weren't the best, taking us over some rough roads, but Derrick didn't seem to mind. Later, as we got closer, he changed his mind and said he remembered dropping off someone in the same area.

Tengo Hambre leaving Watson Gap

When we got to Watson Gap, I saw a sign for Cohutta Wildlife Management Area, and I remembered walking past it during our BMT hike.

"This is good enough," I said, and Derrick dropped us off there.

It might have been possible to drive closer to the terminus, but the map wasn't detailed enough to show if a small car could cross Jack’s River. Besides, we weren't going to shorten the walking distance much by driving farther. No roads lead to the terminus. It is only an intersection of two trails.

Joining the Benton MacKaye Trail

Tengo and I began walking from Watson Gap at 9 a.m. We had to walk two miles on the BMT to reach the terminus. This section of the trail was up and down, sometimes steeply.

Tengo Hambre climbs a hill

I didn't remember so much elevation change when we were here before, though this was hardly a memorable section compared to so many others on the BMT. We were also walking in the opposite direction when we were here before.

Nevertheless, returning to this trail, even for a short distance. brought back many memories of the enjoyable times Tengo, Just Awesome, Polecat, and I spent on the BMT in the fall of 2022.

Gravity and Tengo Hambre at the northern terminus

When Tengo and I arrived at the terminus, we stopped to take selfies and eat a snack.

The last time we were here, we met a hiker named Tide Walker. She had just finished her thru-hike of the Pinhoti Trail. I remembered now that I asked her about the Pinhoti, and she said she skipped some of the long road sections.

Now that I know what they are like, I couldn't blame her for doing that. I would have skipped them too if I didn't have a goal of walking every mile of the trail. Unfortunately, there is still another long stretch of road walking we must complete when we get closer to Dalton.

Rhododendron trees along the trail

Since our start on the Pinhoti three weeks ago, we haven't seen a lot of rhododendrons. Today on this end of the trail, it grew everywhere. Seeing so many, I was not only reminded of the BMT. Many parts of the AT also look like this.

I felt at home.

Tengo Hambre crosses South Fork Jacks River

Tengo and I didn't walk far before arriving at a stream crossing where we had to ford across. It was the south fork of Jacks River. I knew by looking at the map that several more crossings were ahead, so I decided not to take off my shoes and socks. Stopping at each crossing to take them off and put them back on would be too time-consuming.

Tengo put on his Crocs for the crossing and kept them on because of the many others ahead.

A fallen tree across the trail had been cut

Besides crossing streams today, we also had to cross blowdowns. The first we saw had been cut and cleared, so we didn't have to climb over it. Trail maintainers didn't clear the whole trail, however. We found several downed trees later.

The trail continues to climb

The first three miles from the terminus gained roughly 650 feet in elevation as we climbed to Buddy Cove Gap, the highest point on the Pinhoti. At 3,164 feet above sea level, no other spot on the trail came close to that height.

An old forest road

The last part of the climb passed through a wildlife clearing and then joined an old forest road. That road then joined a gravel road at Buddy Cove Gap, the top of the climb. We stopped there for lunch.

The trail descends from Buddy Cove Gap

The descent from Buddy Cove Gap went down another old forest road before narrowing to a single-track trail when it reached Crenshaw Branch. The trail would follow the stream for the next 3.5 miles and cross it several times.

Tengo Hambre crosses Crenshaw Branch

Most of the time, crossing Crenshaw Branch was an easy hop, usually with the assistance of a large rock or two. The stream gradually grew wider as the trail descended alongside it. For the whole section, we lost 1,000 feet of elevation.

Occasionally, we passed little cascades and mini-waterfalls on this lovely part of the trail. Honestly, though, the whole day of hiking was beautiful.

Tengo Hambre crosses a stream at a small waterfall

One stream crossing was trickier than the others. By now, the stream was flowing more swiftly. The trail crossed just a couple of feet above a waterfall with no rocks to step on. Fording the stream required concentration to not step too close to the falls, but it wasn't dangerous.

A tree with many branches lies across the trail

The bad blowdowns we saw today appeared after the trail made a turn and left Crenshaw Branch. The worst one was a tree with several branches spread in different directions. Most had to be climbed over because they were too high to step over.

Azalea blossoms

Besides many rhododendron trees and shrubs, we began to see azaleas. The time of year was too early for rhododendrons to bloom, but there were many bright yellow flowers on the azaleas. Seeing these and the variety of other trees, like poplar, maple, and oak, was a change from the steady supply of pine trees we had seen the last three weeks.

The trail made a sweeping curve, then connected to Bear Creek Trail before following the downhill flow of Bear Creek. That trail was also part of a loop route for mountain bikers, but I didn't see any.

Gennett Poplar

I eventually got ahead of Tengo and reached a campsite at 5:15 p.m. I waited until he arrived ten minutes later so we could discuss if we wanted to stay there tonight. The next campsite identified on the map was 3.7 miles away, which we decided was a little farther than we wanted to continue this late in the day.

Besides, we liked this site. It was convenient and near the base of a tree so notably tall, that it had a name, Gennett Poplar.

The tree was more than 100 feet high and at least 18 feet round, making it the second-largest tree in Georgia. Legend has it that the tree was deemed so majestic that the Gennett Lumber Company chose to leave it standing while clearing much of the timber from this forest.

This story must be true because lumberman Andrew Gennett sold 32,000 acres, which includes where this tree stands, to the U.S. Forest Service in 1912. The sale was historic because it was the first tract of timberland purchased by the government under the Weeks Act of 1911.

Gennett and his family also preserved other large trees and virgin forests, including a protected area in North Carolina with several giant poplar trees, Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest.

Bear Creek

The area for tents wasn't perfect, but it was reasonably flat and not far from Bear Creek. I hung my food away from the site after dinner because I saw bear scat nearby on the trail. I guess that should be expected on Bear Creek.

The section we walked today was the best I've seen so far on the Pinhoti. It felt like we were walking on an entirely different trail. The 9.6 miles of the Pinhoti, plus the two extra miles we hiked on the BMT, were thoroughly enjoyable and made me wish more of the Pinhoti was like this.

I'm hoping for more of the same tomorrow because I know after that, we will have nothing but road walking.

Can you see what I see
Can you cut behind the mystery
I will meet you by the witness tree
Leave the whole world behind

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