Day 32, U.S. 19E to Moreland Gap Shelter

Just then, the guy who runs the general store and hostel walked in the door to check on the machines. He told me his name was Mule.

He explained why the machines were already in use. A couple hikers showed up from the trail early this morning. Though the hostel doesn't check in new hikers that early, they had been obnoxious and demanding. Because he had to get up to deal with them he decided to get an early start with washing towels from the hostel. He normally waits until after hikers have left.

When he discovered I was trying to get my laundry done, Mule said he would hold off completing his loads. As soon as the first washer became available, he let me load my clothes. I appreciated that.

As an added bonus, he discovered someone had left quarters for the machine, so he let me use them.

Later, after putting my laundry in the dryer I headed up to the main house. The biggest attraction for hikers staying at Mountain Harbour Bed & Breakfast and Hiker's Hostel is the breakfast, which is served in the house.

If I were to run a B&B and a hostel, I'm not sure I would have the guts to do what Mountain Harbour does. I'm not sure I would let several grungy, constantly-hungry hikers from the hostel eat with guests staying in the much-nicer B&B. It totally worked, though.

Hikers mingled with B&B guests before the meal was served. Once it was time to eat we were treated with a huge spread of breads, muffins, quiches and fruit. We all loaded up our plates to overflowing, but there was still enough food for seconds. And it was superb. The cost was $12, very pricey by hiker standards, and worth every penny.

After breakfast I removed my hiking clothes from the dryer, changed into them, and then packed up my tent. By now the rain had stopped.

I finally left the hostel at 9:30 a.m. and walked back to the trail along U.S. 19E. The trail picked up from there at a side road, then headed into the forest.

The trail was wet from last night's rain, but for the most part the footpath was well-drained and not too muddy.

Before long the trail entered a clearing that was maintained by the U.S. Forest Service as a habitat for the golden-winged warbler, which is rare in Tennessee. The species lives at higher elevations and prefers grasses, shrubs and small trees.

I didn't see any of the birds as I walked through this open area.

As the trail continued to gradually climb there were a few more open meadows that offered views of distant ranges. Unlike yesterday, the clouds seemed to be in less of a hurry to lift from higher elevations. Big Hump was hidden from view by the low clouds.

Between these meadows the trail made use of old logging roads. That made for a smooth ascent up the mountain.

Near the top was another open meadow, which offered another view.

A section hiker named Nails decided this was a good spot to sit and gaze at the view. I chatted with her briefly before continuing on. Despite my late start I wanted to get in big miles today.

As the trail continued down the other side of the mountain it entered the forest again, crossed another meadow, then entered the forest one more time.

Continuing the descent, the areas around the trail became thick with rhododendron.

It was here that I heard a voice ahead of me.

"Dr. Livingston, I presume."

Coming up the trail was Will, a hiker I had not seen since shortly after we had breakfast together at Nantahala Outdoor Center. She was slackpacking with a hiker named Pappy.

Slackpacking is a way to travel lighter and faster so you can hike more miles in a day. It involves having someone drop you off up the trail, then walking with a day pack instead of a full pack. You walk back to the hostel where you last stayed, or to another road crossing where you get picked up.

Hostels frequently offer slackpacking options because they can make money, both in the shuttle and with another night's stay.

Will and I had a nice chat, and caught up on what had happened since we last saw each other. Will told me Cowboy, who I had also last seen at NOC, had to get off the trail because of a problem with his job. He was hoping to return later.

As we departed in our separate directions a light rain began to fall.

About a half mile farther there was a short side trail to Jones Falls. Sadly, someone had written a message on the sign, "You are a fool if you skip this!"

The rain began to let up as I left the falls. It descended another half mile to where the trail took a sharp bend at Elk River. For the next mile the trail was flat and easy.

Near the end of this stretch I passed a handmade marker indicating this point was 400 miles from Springer Mountain. Whoever made it used small sticks in thick grass next to the trail and I almost failed to see it.

I suppose it's hypocritical of me to complain about other markers on the trail and not for mileage markers like this one. Selfishly, I like seeing that I've reached another big milestone of my long journey. Still, these markers are not "Leave No Trace."

I felt somewhat incredulous to have walked this far, and yet also found it hard to believe I still had nearly 1800 miles to go.

As the day wore on, the rain fell harder and the trail became soggier.

At 5 p.m. I came to a bench that was placed by trail maintainers at a spot for hikers to rest and enjoy a view from a small break in the trees. There was no point in me stopping, though, as the rain eliminated any possibility of a view and any desire to stop and sit.

The trail made several stream crossings, including one called Hardcore Cascades. It's named for a trail crew that does work every year around the time of Trail Days in late May.

Most of the stream crossings were uncomplicated because a footbridge was provided. One crossing was tricky, though. A single log, which didn't extend across the whole stream, was all that was available to step over.

The extra rain didn't help matters. In fact, by now it had turned into a full-fledged thunderstorm. With the steady, heavy rain, there was no avoiding the water. The trail was quickly becoming a flowing river and I was getting soaked to the skin.